Consultation
A consultation is the visit by appointment to see the vet. We endeavour to keep our appointments running to time by allowing extra time for visits we expect to be lengthy, such as puppy visits or skin problems. Having said this, we will always give each problem the time it needs plus a holistic general health examination. We will also see emergency cases immediately if they require attention and so it is possible for some appointments to run late. If this occurs we try to call the following patients and make later appointments, and make those who are waiting comfortable. We have a separate waiting area for owners of timid or aggressive animals or those with infectious diseases.
During a consultation, the vet will collect a history of the patient by examining the computerised patient records and asking the relevant questions, followed by a general physical examination with particular attention to the problem. If the diagnosis is not certain at this point, further testing will be recommended in order to get a thorough understanding prior to any treatments. Most of the time, the solution is clear enough that treatment can be started at the time of consultation.
Worming
Intestinal worms are very common in domestic animals and we strongly recommend regular preventative treatment. Puppies and kittens are most at risk, and will often develop problems if worming is not performed. The most common sign of a worm infestation in young animals is a poor appetite together with a swollen belly. This syndrome is caused by roundworms physically obstructing the intestines due to their large size. Roundworms are passed from the mother to the young prior to birth and develop and breed quickly if unchecked due to the lack of resistance of newborns. Dogs and cats also get several types of hookworms and tapeworms, and dogs are susceptible to whipworm infestation. All of these worms are spread by microscopic highly resistant eggs passed into the environment via faeces.
We recommend that puppies and kittens be wormed every 2 weeks from 4 weeks of age up to 12 weeks of age, and then monthly to 6 months of age. Pups and kittens over 6 months can be wormed the same as adults every 3 months for life. Worming is important not only for the health of the pet but also to prevent disease in young children. The condition in children called 'visceral larva migrans' is caused by children ingesting soil or other matter contaminated with worm eggs, which then hatch and the larvae cause damage in their migration through the body.
Heartworm prevention is just as important as preventing intestinal worms. Scroll down to the separate section at the bottom on this important regular treatment
X rays
Radiographs (xrays) are the most commonly used form of ‘diagnostic imaging’ in veterinary practice, giving us a ‘window’ into the body.
They provide information on problems affecting the bones and joints, but also on those affecting the organs in the chest and abdomen.
For many disorders, we will require a radiograph to decide on the cause of the problem or to determine the best method of treatment. At Walkerville Veterinary Surgery we have an xray room where radiographs are taken, under anaesthesia if need be, and a developing room for processing the films. In this way a diagnosis can be made rapidly.
Sometimes we will feel that a problem is best diagnosed with another form of diagnostic imaging, such as ultrasound, myelography, or even NMR or CAT scans. For these patients, we recommend referral to the appropriate centre where these procedures can be performed.
Other Testing
Fibre-optic endoscopy is also in use at Walkerville Veterinary Surgery. It is especially useful for diagnosing and treating gastrointestinal problems, such as oesophageal and gastric foreign bodies or diseases of the stomach or small intestine.
Electrocardiography is performed via a portable ECG machine on appropriate cases where certain heart diseases are suspected.
Ultrasound examination or Echocardiography is performed via a portable doppler ultrasound machine on appropriate cases by Dr Helen Binnie in the clinic on a referral basis.
For complex or challenging cases, referral can be arranged to a Veterinary Dermatologist and to registered veterinary specialists in Behaviour, Medicine, Surgery and Ophthalmology.
We work in close association with a veterinary pathology company who on a daily basis provide us with results of specific testing performed on blood samples, swabs, fluids, biopsies and tissues.
Dental Advice
DENTAL DISEASE
Dental disease is very common in dogs, cats and rabbits. However, it is one of the most overlooked complaints by owners. All animals are at risk of developing dental disease, however some breeds are at a higher risk and some animals suffer from recurrent infections. Rabbits have their own unique problems dealt with at the end of the section.
The most common cause of dental disease is due to tartar accumulation. As in humans, bacterial plaque accumulates on the surface of the teeth, which if not removed quickly becomes mineralised to form tartar (also called calculus). The bacterial products and decaying food stuck to tartar are one potential cause of bad breath.
Tartar is easily identified by its light or dark brown colour - it is normally first seen at the gum edge, especially on the back teeth (premolars & molars). In severe cases it may entirely cover the teeth.
The accumulation of tartar and bacteria on the teeth surfaces will, sooner or later, lead to infection and gingivitis (inflammation of the gums). If the disease is caught at this early stage, then thorough professional veterinary treatment may permit a full recovery. However, if gingivitis is allowed to persist untreated, then irreversible periodontal disease will occur.
During this process the bone and ligaments that support the tooth are destroyed leading to excessive tooth mobility and eventually tooth loss. Infection around the socket causes the formation of pus and a foul odour, and may spread deep into the tooth socket creating an abscess, or even more severe problems
Dental disease can be found to some degree in the majority of cats over two years of age fed commercial cat food exclusively. In addition to periodontal disease and gingivitis cats are prone to developing neck lesions (also called resorptive lesions or odontoclastic lesions). Neck lesions result from a progressive destruction of the tooth substance effectively resulting in slowly deepening "holes" in the teeth concerned. Once the sensitive part of the tooth is exposed these lesions are intensely painful, and usually the only available treatment is to extract the tooth. The cause of this disease is unknown, however poor oral hygiene undoubtedly plays a role in the disease-process.
Despite the main concern being the risk of loss of teeth, the cocktail of bacteria which invades the mouth has been responsible for liver and kidney disease from bacteria entering the blood stream. Closer to home, localised infection can cause tonsilitis, pharyngitis (sore throat) & osteomyelitis of the jaw bones. If the upper jaw, the maxillae, is affected, connection between the oral and nasal pharynx by means of a fistula, can be responsible for upper respiratory infections, noticed as snorting, sneezing, reduced appetite, drooling & persistent nasal discharge.
Check your pet for the following…
1. Plaque or tartar – yellow-grey look and furry feel to the sides of the teeth.
2. Bad breath.
3. Gingivitis – red flare or swelling of the gum line; retraction of gum line from regular tooth margin.
4. Drooling or blood coming from the mouth.
5. Reduced appetite or anorexia – very often the animal is hungry, but has difficulty chewing or may drop food from the mouth. Your cat may show less interest in food, or approach the food bowl then be reluctant to eat, or back away. Many times an animal will continue to eat regardless of advanced periodontal disease, which is difficult for an owner to comprehend, but these animals still require attention. Animals can be in chronic discomfort without our knowledge so look inside their mouth, and think whether it would make YOU sick.
6. Swellings of the jaw or beneath the eye.
What can YOU do at home?
Raw meaty bone feeding is generally found to be very effective by most dog and cat owners. However, there are some safety issues which need to be discussed and we suggest you talk to us at your next visit on whether this is appropriate for your pet. Cooked bones should NEVER be fed, as they splinter and often get caught in the mouth or worse still, in the intestines.
Some dogs cannot chew bones due to a previous medical history, or do not chew them safely. For these dogs there are several options. A prescription biscuit, called Hill’s T/D diet that is specifically formulated to fight plaque & the accumulation of tartar while providing good nutrition is probably the best choice, as it is affordable and popular with dogs and cats.
Greenies are a new dog chew treat which have shown promising results in preventing tartar accumulation. For non-chewers, we recommend a combination of Eukanuba diets and a wax gel called Oravet which is applied to the gumline weekly. And of course, tooth brushing, while time consuming and limited to those animals who will tolerate it, is another good option. But sometimes, despite the best intentions, the problem gets to a point where only veterinary assistance can fix the problem.
What can your VET do?
Should you notice changes in your pet’s mouth, have it checked professionally. Your veterinarian will be able to assess damage and recommend the appropriate treatment. Should your pet’s condition be advanced and beyond being treated at home, the vet may suggest performing a dental scale and polish with an ultrasonic scaler followed by polishing the tooth surfaces. This procedure is performed under general anaesthesia without any discomfort to the animal. Teeth are removed only when they are not able to be fixed, and will cause ongoing pain or inflammation.
Utmost care is taken prior to, during and after the procedure to ensure a safe anaesthetic for your beloved friend. Many owners, particularly of senior patients, understandably have grave concerns regarding general anaesthesia and the increased risk associated with the elderly. Rest assured we are even more aware of this and work with it every day, taking care and skill to choose the appropriate anaesthetic agent for the individual animal. Furthermore, our team of trained, competent nurses are always by our side. After dental work, owners regularly comment on how much better their pets are and how they thought it was just ‘old age’ making their pet unwell.
Rabbits and their problems
Dental disease in rabbits is usually a result of an inappropriate diet, but can occur in even the best cared for bunny. Rabbits have continuously growing teeth, and need large quantities of coarse roughage to grind and chew, in order to keep their teeth worn down. If they receive only softer foods, such as grains, pellets or vegetables, their teeth tend to lengthen, making chewing difficult, and leading to tooth root impaction or sharp spurs in the mouth. The best source of roughage for rabbits is hay, not straw which is indigestible. Hay (e.g. lucerne or grass hay) can be bought from fodder stores and fed daily as well as used for bedding, and should comprise at least half the diet.
Tooth problems in rabbits are usually noticed by the rabbit going off his or her food, or trying to eat but the food falling from the mouth. Sometimes, the overgrown teeth can be seen protruding from the mouth but usually it is necessary for a vet to examine the mouth. Treatment of overgrown incisors can be performed conscious without difficulty but other problems will require anaesthesia.
Surgery
We have a purpose-built operating theatre which we use on a daily basis for surgical procedures. Our trained staff and the range of equipment at our disposal makes us able to perform most surgical procedures, including fracture repair or abdominal surgery. Every surgical operation is performed using a fresh sterilised instrument pack used for only that patient.
We are very proud of our anaesthetic record, and take a careful and thorough approach to each individual, depending on their specific needs. All patients receive a physical examination prior to anaesthesia to identify any problems which may reduce the safety of the procedure. Once anaesthetised, patients are monitored using a pulse oximeter measuring blood oxygen levels and heart rate, and an apnoea monitor, in addition to continuous nurse checks. We use isoflurane gas anaesthesia for maintaining all patients despite its extra cost due to its improved safety.
Please ask us to show you our facilities before you book in your pet.
POST-OPERATIVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CATS
What should I do when my cat arrives home after its operation?
Please keep your pet warm and comfortable, ideally in a quiet and draught free room. Your cat should be offered a drink of fresh water. A small amount of food may be given. Some animals, like humans, may vomit following an anaesthetic. If so, do not continue to offer food. If vomiting persists, then please contact the surgery. Please keep your cat indoors overnight.
You should discourage any jumping or activity that will cause excessive stretching of the wound, especially during the first few days post-operatively.
My cat seems very sleepy, is this normal?
Your cat has been given a general anaesthetic. Allow at least 24hours for it to wear off. Over the next day or two their behaviour should return to normal, however if you are at all concerned do not hesitate to contact the surgery. Most cats sleep even more than normal in the first week after surgery.
Why has my cats foreleg been clipped?
This is where the anaesthetic or sedative was administered.
Has my cat received pain relief?
Your cat has received an injection for pain relief. If your cat appears to be in discomfort, contact the surgery as soon as possible.
What should I do if my cat is licking its wound or chewing the stitches?
There is a danger of the stitches being pulled out or infection being introduced into the wound. Remember - it only takes a few seconds of unobserved chewing for a cat to undo its stitches. Please contact the surgery for advice regarding deterrents if this problem arises. If your cat does succeed in removing any of its stitches then please call the surgery as soon as possible.
How should I care for the wound?
Please check the wound DAILY for the following, and contact the surgery if you are at all concerned:-
1. Discharge from the wound.
2. Any swelling.
3. Excessive redness of the skin.
4. Evidence of licking or stitches missing.
Do NOT bathe the wound or allow the site to get wet.
Do NOT apply any ointments or medications to the area.
When do the stitches need removing?
Stitches are removed 10 days after the operation. Please phone for an appointment time. There is no charge and it is important that the vet checks the wound at this point.
When can my cat resume a normal active life?
Your cat should be kept as quiet as possible for the first 10days. Jumping in particular, should be discouraged. After the skin stitches are removed, the vet will instruct you as to whether normal activity can be resumed.
POST-OPERATIVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR DOGS
What should I do when my dog arrives home after its operation?
Please keep your pet warm and comfortable, ideally in a quiet and draught free room. Your dog should be offered a drink of fresh water and a small amount of food may be given. Some dogs will not accept food and so can be fed as normal the following morning. Vomiting can occur the night of the surgery, but persistent vomiting is not normal. Please keep your dog indoors overnight. You should discourage any jumping or activity that will cause excessive stretching of the wound, especially during the first few days post-operatively, but preferably for the entire ten days.
My dog seems very sleepy, is this normal?
Your dog has been given a general anaesthetic. These drugs can take a number of hours to wear off and may cause some patients to appear drowsy for a day or so. Over the next few days their behaviour should return to normal, however if you are at all concerned do not hesitate to contact the surgery. Most dogs also sleep even more than normal in the first week after surgery.
Why has my dogs foreleg been clipped?
This is where the anaesthetic was administered.
Has my dog received any pain relief?
Your dog has received an injection for pain relief, that should make them comfortable overnight. The surgical site will be tender for a number of days and care should be taken when lifting your dog. If your dog appears to be in continued discomfort, contact the surgery as soon as possible.
My dog has developed a slight cough since the operation, is this anything to worry about?
Your dog has had a tube placed in their trachea (windpipe) during the anaesthetic. This can occasionally cause mild irritation and a slight cough as an after effect. If so it will settle down over the next few days, however should it persist then contact the surgery.
What should I do if my dog is licking its wound or chewing the stitches?
This is discouraged as there is a danger of the stitches being pulled out or infection being introduced into the wound. If your dog begins licking or chewing we can provide an Elizabethan collar or give instructions on how to make one yourself. Remember - it only takes a few seconds of unobserved chewing for a dog to undo its stitches. If your dog does succeed in removing any of its stitches then please call the surgery as soon as possible.
How should I care for the wound?
Please check the wound DAILY for any of the following and contact the surgery if you are at all concerned:-
1. Discharge from the wound.
2. Any swelling.
3. Excessive redness of the skin.
4. Evidence of licking or stitches missing.
Do NOT bathe the wound or apply any ointment or medication
Do NOT allow your animal to swim or get the surgical site wet.
When do the stitches need removing?
Stitches (also called sutures) are removed 10 days after the operation. Please phone us for an appointment time. There is no charge and it is important that the vet checks the wound at this point.
When can my dog resume a normal active life?
Your animal should be kept as quiet as possible for the first 10 days. Jumping in particular should be discouraged. After the skin stitches are removed the vet will instruct you as to whether normal activity can be resumed.
Heartworm and Flea control
Heartworm and Flea Control in the Dog
Heartworm is a common and serious cause of illness in dogs in Adelaide. The disease is caused by large adult worms (approximately 20cm long) living in the heart and major blood vessels. Often the only outward sign of heartworm infection is a soft but persistent cough, or a loss of fitness, but the underlying damage is often great. Many dogs with heartworm show no outward signs at all. The disease is passed on via mosquitoes, which pick up and transmit microscopic larvae between dogs as they feed.
The Worm
Prevention of heartworm infection is important due to the danger posed by the parasite as well as the difficulty in treating the established disease. If the right product is used, prevention is close to 100% effective. Some preventatives may also treat some intestinal worms, but control is not adequate as this is a separate type of parasite, and separate intestinal wormers are still required every three months.
At first glance there seems to be a bewildering array of choices on offer for heartworm and flea control. At Walkerville Veterinary Surgery we have selected from this choice a group of products which should cover every requirement in the most effective and economical fashion. Having said this, if you are using another product, please ask for our advice on its suitability. In particular, it is worth noting that most non-veterinary (i.e. supermarket/pet store) flea control products are ineffective and daily heartworm tablets are not recommended. We are also not happy with the safety of many of these treatments. All of the following options should give 100% control and safety if used according to their instructions, and are simple to use. Remember that puppies should commence heartworm prevention at 3 months of age, but older dogs may require a blood test if their prevention has not been continuous since a puppy.
Each of the following products will prevent flea and heartworm infestation.
Advocate: a monthly parasite treatment that is applied to the back of the neck monthly. The heartworm preventative is absorbed through the skin in approximately two hours and acts systemically to kill heartworm larvae as mosquitoes deposit them. It will also prevent or treat all of the common external parasites of dogs. Advocate is also effective in controlling intestinal worms other than tapeworms. The flea control is identical to Advantage in all respects and so provides a safe and thorough barrier to flea infestation. Therefore, advocate provides an almost complete parasite protection. We recommend dogs treated with advocate still receive intestinal worming once a year or 3-monthly if having country access.
Sentinel Spectrum: although it has been available for some time, Sentinel remains very effective. It is a tablet, given monthly with food, which combines a heartworm preventative with an insect growth regulator (Program) and a tapewormer. Fleas feeding off animals treated with Sentinel lay infertile eggs but do not die themselves; therefore if the dog has fleas, an insecticide is often necessary initially to get the problem under control. Program does not work unless all cats and dogs in the house are being treated. Sentinel, as well as preventing heartworm infection, also provides good intestinal worm protection.
Revolution: This is a product very similar to Advocate, in that it treats heartworm and fleas via application on the skin at the back of the neck. It is very effective against fleas and heartworm, and easy to apply. However, it lacks the broader protection against intestinal worms, necessitating 3-monthly tablets.
The following products are either heartworm-only or flea-only so using one of each is required for complete control.
Proheart Injectable: injectable heartworm prevention, in a slow-release formulation. When given to an adult dog (>9 months) it will last for one year. In dogs aged 6 to 9 months, it will last 9 months. It cannot effectively be given to dogs less than 6 months. Proheart Injectable is ideal for dogs that refuse tablets or chews, and for owners too busy to remember the monthly dose! Due to the importance of heartworm prevention, if there is a chance of missing doses, we highly recommend this option. It will be most convenient if timed together with the yearly vaccination but can be given at any time.
Heartgard: an oral heartworm medication in which the heartworm preventative is packaged into a meaty chew palatable to almost all dogs. Cannot be used in Collie dogs and their crosses. The ‘original’ monthly heartworm prevention. Contains an intestinal wormer, but again its effect is too limited, and regular 3-monthly worming is recommended.
Advantage: either flea control only, or in combination as Advantage Duo. Possibly the most effective flea insecticide on the market at present. It is applied to the back of the neck monthly, and will kill fleas shortly after they jump on to feed, often before they bite. This very quickly stops scratching and itchiness associated with flea bites, and nearly eliminates contamination of the house with eggs. Advantage also exerts a local killing effect on fleas and larvae where the animal sleeps. It is partly water-fast only; repeated washing will dislodge it; therefore, if the animal were wet more than once a week we would normally recommend Frontline.
Frontline: another topical monthly flea control very similar to Advantage. The cost difference is negligible. Frontline is water-fast, and therefore a better topical insecticide for swimmers or regular bathers.
Flea, Intestinal Worm and Heartworm Control in the Cat
In cats, we generally recommend continuous flea control. The reason for this is that flea infestations are surprisingly common, perhaps more often present than not, and owners are typically unaware their cat is affected. Unless they develop a hypersensitivity, cats tend to react to fleas without obvious scratching, and will typically only show a mild dandruff and groom more often, fleas being notoriously difficult to find. Flea preventatives for cats are a dime a dozen, but truly safe and effective products are few. Collars, sprays, washes and powders are all out, and organophosphate- or pyrethroid-containing products are just not safe enough. Suffice to say, if it does not appear in the list below, we don’t recommend it.
Similarly, intestinal worms are quite common and hard to detect. Worming with Drontal tablets is recommended monthly for kittens and 3-monthly for adults.
The situation with heartworm disease is more complicated. The heartworm is generally a parasite of the dog, not the cat, and in Adelaide the chance of exposure to heartworm depends on where you live. In a heartworm area, cats are considered to get heartworm infections at only 10% of the rate of dogs. Therefore, if 1 in 10 unprotected dogs gets heartworm, we would expect around 1 in 100 unprotected cats to get the infection. The problem is that when cats get heartworm, they usually die of the disease. For this disease, we don’t insist on prevention like we do in dogs, but if the expense is not considered too great, then prevention is recommended, also for its other benefits.
As most people are only too painfully aware, treating cats involves a fair degree of skill and a cooperative kitty. For this reason, most of the better treatments for cats are made with ease of application in mind. The following list should all prove safe and effective.
Revolution: a monthly liquid applied to the back of the neck, which treats fleas and worms and prevents heartworm. The active ingredient is absorbed and acts systemically. Therefore, fleas feeding on the animal will die, and heartworm will fail to establish after inoculation via the mosquito. Also, dander and hair falling from the animal will kill flea eggs and larvae in the house and environment. Revolution will prevent and treat ear mite infestation. Revolution also kills both roundworms and hookworms in the cat, and via flea control will prevent the flea tapeworm. Therefore, the only common parasite not treated is the Taenia sp. tapeworm, which cats collect mostly via their prey. Revolution is an ideal general treatment for cats whose owners wish to do ‘everything’ for their cats, or for those cats less than cooperative with tablets. Worming with Drontal every three months is still recommended (if possible!) but is probably unnecessary in non-hunters.
Advocate: also monthly liquid applied to the back of the neck, which treats fleas and worms and prevents heartworm. The parasites treated are likely to be the same as those treated by Revolution. Given the higher cost, and messier application, we continue to recommend Revolution, though it is a good product.
Advantage: Advantage is a very effective flea control for cats where the additional benefits of Revolution are not required. It is applied to the back of the neck monthly, and will kill fleas as they jump on to feed, thus also reducing the environmental contamination with time. Advantage also exerts a local killing effect on fleas and larvae where the animal sleeps. It is partly water-fast only but then not many cats go swimming. It must be applied high on the neck where the cat cannot lick, but is perfectly safe once it spreads.
Frontline: another topical monthly flea control very similar to Advantage. The cost difference is negligible. Frontline is water-fast.
