Sometimes they’ll yelp, or limp, but other times it just looks bent or dislocated. There may even be a little bleeding. What do you do?

The dog’s nail in the picture above is a good example. His owner was told it was fine to wait for it to fix itself, but after several days she wasn’t so sure.

Will A Broken Nail Heal On Its Own?

Most broken nails will heal by themselves over 1-2 weeks. However this causes unacceptable discomfort in the meantime. The loose nail is still partly attached to the injured nailbed, and even the slightest movement creates intense pain.

Additionally, if untreated the area of separation between nail and nailbed quickly gets infected. You will notice this by the appearance of a smell around two days after the injury.

Remember the number one message from vets to dog owners is: they don’t complain.

Can I Pull The Nail Off Myself?

You will find people online advising you to remove the broken or damaged nail by pulling, cutting or snipping. Here’s why that’s a bad idea:

1. The nail fragment is often very well attached. Sometimes it also contains vital parts of the nailbed that should not be removed.
2. Pulling the nail often leaves small slivers that you cannot see still embedded in the nailbed.
3. Puling a broken nail is extremely painful. They may not complain, but it is likely that you will lose your dog’s trust in touching their nails for ever after.

The last point I have seen many, many times. As a young vet I (like most back then) would just ‘pull’ the loose nails and apply a dressing. It took years of experience to see how differently the dogs related to me afterwards. Pain is the best educator.

Those people online? I can only guess that they haven’t torn one of their own toenails yet. And here are my personal observations: their use of styptics on bleeding wounds is unacceptably painful, and their home dressings are generally too tight.

When Should I Go To The Vet For A Broken Nail?

A broken nail is rarely an emergency requiring out of hours care but you should make an appointment with your vet at their soonest available in regular business hours. Preferably, go in the morning and do not feed your dog.

Most vets agree that the best humane treatment is deep sedation to abolish pain before any attempt to remove the nail. This also allows us to clip and closely inspect the injury before action. You can see in the picture above that there is some pus and bleeding around the base of the nail.

Sedation also allows us to carefully ‘peel’ the nail away without tearing the underlying tissues. Any remnant pieces of nail which will cause ongoing infection are easily identified and removed. The area is cleaned and finally a dressing is placed.

How Long Does It Take To Heal?

Once the damaged nail is removed and the infection controlled, a new nail starts growing straight away. Then, as long as it is kept clean and dry, the dressing can usually either be removed after three days, or changed and removed after six.

The last thing to consider is prevention. Most nails that get broken are dewclaws that have got a little too long.

For this reason, you will notice that I check a dog’s dewclaw by sliding my finger underneath. If it catches my finger, this means it can get caught on anything else too. That’s when I get the clippers out: not to cut it very short, just to stop it being hooked on the end.

So to finish up, read my Guide To Good, Bad & Ugly Dewclaws

Have something to add? Comments (if open) will appear within 24 hours.
By Andrew Spanner BVSc(Hons) MVetStud, a vet in Adelaide, Australia. Meet his team here. The information provided here is not intended to be used as a substitute for going to the vet. If your pet is unwell, please seek veterinary attention.

Here I am going to help you know when dog nails are too long, and most importantly, when they are not. Because it matters.

The Dangers Of Nail Trimming

In a normal dog, the quick is typically within 1mm of the end of the nail. This is the part of the nail with nerves and blood vessels.

When you clip a dog’s nails too short, you are going to hurt them. You might not notice at the time, but your dog certainly does, and they remember it.

Resilient, happy dogs can tolerate the occasional slip. But frequent over-clipping will cause any dog to associate nail clippers or foot handling with pain. An anxious dog might learn this from just one bad experience.

Every vet sees what happens next. These dogs become fearful about their feet being handled, and get very stressed when the time comes that they really need their nails clipped.

Any attempt at clipping causes (at best) constant foot pulling, which increases the risk of hurting them again. At worst they are actually panicking and need a sedation for their own good.

How To Tell When Nails Are Normal

There are two easy ways to tell if your dog’s nails are the right length.

In a normal standing position, a dog’s nails at the correct length do not touch the ground. Each nail will generally hover 1mm above the surface, and only make contact during movement. To see this, get your dog to stand on a smooth surface and either crouch down or take a photo.

Although it is usually abnormal to hear a dogs’ nails clicking when they walk, for others it’s quite OK. Nail noise is therefore an unreliable test until you know what’s normal for your own dog.

The second ‘rule of thumb’ is to draw an imaginary line forward from the base of the pad like in the picture. The nail should not cross the line. This dog has helpfully rotated his digit back so we can see it but it’s easier to do by picking up the paw.

For both measures, I will allow an extra 1 to 2 mm in an anxious dog just to be sure.

Why Don’t Some Dogs Need Trimming?

There is a widespread myth that all dogs need their nails clipped or trimmed short. This is presumably because people need to regularly do their own. A natural dog will not.

‘Natural’ means a dog similar enough to its wild cousins that the nails still function as nature intended. Therefore, a dog with the following attributes usually never needs nail trimming:

• Bodyweight above 10kg
• Walked and run every day
• Using hard surfaces, not just grass

The only common exception is the dewclaw, which you can learn all about at the link.

When Dog Nails Should Be Trimmed

When a dog’s nails are too long, the nail tips are in permanent contact with the ground,. The pressure often causes the digit to rotate backwards and up, or to twist sideways. This is presumably uncomfortable, like wearing shoes that squeeze your toes.

You can see all these features in the dog pictured at the start. If this dog does not have his nails clipped, some of the deviation in the toes will become permanent. This is particularly true for sideways rotation of the digit.

Dewclaws (the ‘thumbs’) should be trimmed when they catch your finger like in the photo, and then only back until they don’t.

However, some dogs have what we call ‘long quicks’ so just touching the ground or hooking aren’t enough evidence. You see this a lot with older dogs. In the earlier photo the nails are clear, so we can see that the pink quick inside isn’t all that long.

Dogs with black nails present the greatest challenge. Before trimming these for the first time, you should always get expert advice. Even with visible quicks you should stay 2mm below where you think it ends.

When To Trim A Puppy’s Nails

A puppy’s new nails start out with a sharp tip. As they grow they thicken, but this still leaves a fine point that scratches people. Although it can be clipped, great care is needed.

Most of the time when I’m asked, I say it’s too dangerous because the quicks are so close. Any slip and the puppy’s very first experience of nail clipping will be a painful one. Like always with puppy socialisation, early experiences must be good.

The pictured puppy had 1mm removed but they were still sharp afterwards. But they’ll wear down just fine once he starts walking in a week.

Here’s an example when the nails did need trimming. You can see how long and hooked they were before, and how I stayed well away from the quick when I cut them.

Judgements like these come with experience. I don’t expect you to start clipping your dog’s nails; I just hope that this article gives you the power to judge them for yourself. But of course, as with everything else, you are not alone. If you have doubts, just ask at your vet or grooming salon. They’ll be only too happy to help.

Related: How To Trim Dog Nails & Cat Claws

Have something to add? Comments (if open) will appear within 24 hours.
By Andrew Spanner BVSc(Hons) MVetStud, a vet in Adelaide, Australia. Meet his team here.

Why such a random number? It’s because dogs have four weight-bearing toes on each foot, and only two dewclaws. Of all the toes, it’s these dewclaws that cause dogs and their owners the most trouble.

What Is A Dewclaw?

A dewclaw is the extra toe that is found on the inside of a dog’s front leg. It’s a completely normal digit with three bones, two joints and a nail. Dewclaws correspond in position to the thumb in humans except without quite the same mobility or uses.

Dewclaws are only abnormal when they appear on the hind legs. Exceptions are breeds like the Pyrenean Mountain Dog or Briard where hind dewclaws are part of the breed standard. For the rest, my guess is that less that one percent have them at birth.

What Dewclaws Are For

Dewclaws are definitely not useless. Watch a dog gripping a bone and you’ll wonder how they do it without them.

Then there’s their use in running. To demonstrate, here’s a fun task: pick up your dog’s front leg and look at its underside. Above the main four pads, even above the dewclaw you’ll see a small, circular pad seemingly lost high up on the back of the ‘wrist’. This is the stopper pad. What on earth is it for?

To answer that question, and at the same time to show what dewclaws do, just watch this video of a dog at full flight.

At a run, the wrist of a dog flexes so much that both the dewclaw and the stopper pad come into contact with the ground. The dewclaw provides extra stability, the stopper pad is a bumper that protects the carpus.

Why Dewclaws Break or Split

Most urban dogs don’t run enough to wear down their dewclaws. Reasons include:

• A lack of suitable spaces
• A lack of owner time
• Medical reasons such as arthritis or being overweight
• Not enough bodyweight to wear the nail down
• Dogs that just don’t want to run!

It’s perfectly fine to just walk your dogs; the important thing is getting out, not what you do. However, for these dogs, the dewclaw often gets too long, like in the middle picture at the top. Then, it curls into a hook shape, which easily catches on anything.

Most of the time we don’t see what actually catches it, but the result is a nail that is either:

• Pulled out completely
• Half-removed (a ‘hang-nail’)
• Split down the middle

Either way, this is very painful.

What To Do If A Dog Breaks A Nail

A dog that pulls out a nail needs the exposed nailbed protected from trauma and infection. This requires a vet to gently clip away the hair, apply a semi-occlusive dressing and use antibiotics. It’s also important that the vet carefully checks for any nail remnants left behind.

A torn, broken or split nail needs to be removed completely. No matter how loose it is, never do this without a vet giving sedation. It’s far too painful, and you run the risk of your dog never trusting you again if you try. Believe me, I’ve made this mistake.

Once again, the nailbed is best protected by a dressing. This can typically be removed after 3-5 days. Then to prevent it happening again, you need to start clipping the dewclaw. Here’s how…

How To Trim Dewclaws

Trimming dewclaws is a lot easier than clipping the other nails. Here’s a good ‘rule of thumb’:

1. Run your finger under the nail: a dewclaw needs trimming when it catches or hooks your finger.
2. Trim it back only until your finger slides off it easily. If you cut too far you will cause pain and bleeding.
3. Use good quality bypass clippers and make a quick, precise and confident cut.

Is It OK To Remove Dewclaws?

Now look at the right hand top picture. It shows a dog who had his dewclaws removed by the breeder shortly after birth. I call this a form of mutilation.

Yes, I’m aware that some breed standards demand dewclaws be removed. Some breeders also have a strong tradition of removing them. However, we used to say the same thing about tail docking.

Dewclaws on the front legs are just as useful to a dog as their tail, and should be kept unless they cause problems. I’m perfectly happy to remove them if a dog keeps getting them torn despite good clipping. In 25 years, how many times do you think I’ve had to do this? Once.

Hind Dewclaw Removal

Hind limb dewclaws are another matter. If you look again at the left hand picture and compare it with the middle image you can see how they curl tightly. To make matters worse, they almost never contact the ground enough to wear them down. Often they even lack a bony connection.

So we have a nail that:

• Keeps growing regardless of exercise
• Gets ingrown when it gets long
• Is hard to trim without bleeding
• Is not part of normal anatomy

That’s plenty of justification for removal. I’ll support owners if they want to manage them, but most people eventually forget. Without constant vigilance, hind dewclaws get ingrown, painful and infected.

The best time to have them removed is together with desexing. It’s quick, easy, and goes well if they keep their collar on to prevent licking.

If an owner ever does ask us to take the front ones off, we put it down to receiving bad advice. It only takes a minute for them to agree that their dog is better off keeping these digits. Troublesome or not, maintenance of dewclaws is within the skillset of every dog owner.

Have something to add? Comments (if open) will appear within 24 hours.
By Andrew Spanner BVSc(Hons) MVetStud, a vet in Adelaide, Australia. Meet his team here. The information provided here is not intended to be used as a substitute for going to the vet. If your pet is unwell, please seek veterinary attention.

The answer is something I’ve held back a long time from writing about. It contains criticism of my own profession as well as others. God knows, I’m no saint, and like most vets, I’ve made all these mistakes too. But we’re going to keep making them, so you need to know how to stop them.

It’s about dogs getting hurt at the very places they are supposed to be helped. By people who would never dream of hurting them. It happens easily and it happens all the time.

The dog afraid of having her ears touched

She first came to me for a routine checkup as a puppy. As she walked in I noted how she shook her head and thought, “I must look at those ears.” However, everything changed the moment I turned over her ear flap to look inside.

Out of the blue, she panicked, yelped, even tried to bite me and fought to get away. There was no other option but to give up and let her go.

I’d seen it enough times to already have a good idea what had caused this, and her owner confirmed my fears. A few months earlier, she had an ear infection, and was taken to her previous vet.

I happen to know this vet practice well, and they do good work. When the vet went to put in the ear treatment, it wasn’t easy. The vet said, “we’ll just take her out the back and put it in for you.”

That’s when it began. From then on, she has not allowed anyone to handle her ears the way a vet does. The ear infection never cleared up because the owner couldn’t treat it and the vets couldn’t check it.

We’ll never know what happened ‘out the back’ that day but it was clearly traumatic. it was probably nothing more than one nurse holding her while the other put the ointment in her ears. Like I said, it doesn’t take much.

The dog who won’t let her feet be touched

I’ve known her since her free check as a tiny puppy. She was always a sensitive dog, but we could do anything if we handled her the right way. That is, until the day she came in completely changed.

Now her owners couldn’t clip her nails without a terrible fight. I looked at the nails and said, “you don’t need to clip them, they’re already short!” But it was too late. Someone, this time at a pet store, had already tried to clip them and cut her to the quick.

By the way, the idea that all dogs need their nails clipped is one of the most annoying myths because it does a lot of harm. Most active dogs don’t need their nails done until they get old. If you try to clip their nails, this usually happens.

By ’this,’ I mean a dog learning that foot handling equals pain. Thanks very much. From here on, the very best you can hope for when handling their feet is a scared, frozen look. As in this case, it’s usually much worse.

When Bad Things Happens

Times to be especially careful are:

• Nail clipping or checking broken nails
• Ear inspection (that’s why I always get a nurse to keep the head still)
• Removing grass seeds, matts and burrs
• Clipping, especially around the bottom
• Injections
• Handling any painful area

Why Bad Things Happen

How is it possible that these dogs were hurt by people trying to do their best? Reasons include:

Not wanting to say no. It takes a lot of guts to refuse to do something, especially if you are an employee of a larger enterprise.

Time pressure. Most things are possible with enough patience, but vets have only a limited time before they start running late.

Not recognising the damage. I think often the people involved simply don’t see the problem yet (it took me years to notice how these single events changed dogs).

Not foreseeing the damage. We’re often guilty of being too optimistic about how easy something will be. Until too late.

So what can be done to prevent this happening?

How To Reduce Fear At The Vets

Patience. If it can’t be done quickly without stress, it shouldn’t be done at all. I always tell clients when a dog has their first ear infection that it may take all night to get the first dose in. However, if you make it fun, from then on it will get easier, not harder.

Treats. It’s always easier when a puppy is food-focused. That way you can keep their attention on the treat the whole time. It often even works while getting an injection!

Keep them in sight. I hate to say this, but I would always question why a dog needs to be taken away from you. Sometimes the vet might be young and nervous when watched, which I can understand. Sometimes it might truly be that your puppy is getting affected by your stress, or that the procedure will upset you. However, if you can be a calm role model for your pup, your presence will always be helpful.

Take no for an answer. Ask the vet their honest opinion rather than simply requesting a procedure. I last made this mistake of not speaking up a year ago. It was a very experienced and authoritative owner but I should have stayed true to myself regardless.

Visit more often. Lots of happy visits to the vet make the sad visits easier. It’s called trust. That doesn’t mean you need to actually see the vet though. Just a regular weigh-in, a treat or coming along with the other pets does the trick too. The best of all is, of course, puppy preschool!

Sedate, Sedate, Sedate. Both the above cases get sedation whenever they need the problem area treated. It’s easy, safe and stress-free, just a little more expensive and time-consuming. But they don’t remember a thing.

So how are the two patients going? Sadly, the dog with a phobia of foot handling is unlikely to improve without intensive behavioural therapy and possibly medication.

The outlook for the dog with the ear infection is much rosier. She has had several sedations, the ear is fixed, and she now even lets me peek at her (not painful) ear. Every time I see her she trusts me more.

So if I ever say to you I need to use a sedation to get a job done, or something just can’t be done, I hope you’ll see how high the stakes are. For these dogs, and many others, it can take only one false move to mark them for life.

And that dog at the start? That’s Hugo, who I sincerely doubt has had one unhappy moment in his life.

Further reading: Taking An Aggressive Dog To The Vet | Anxiety in Dogs & Cats

Have something to add? Comments (if open) will appear within 24 hours.
By Andrew Spanner BVSc(Hons) MVetStud, a vet in Adelaide, Australia. Meet his team here. The information provided here is not intended to be used as a substitute for going to the vet. If your pet is unwell, please seek veterinary attention.

• Bacterial or fungal infection
• Contact dermatitis, trauma or burns
• Nailbed infections or tumours
• Grass seeds, stress, illness or anxiety.

Now dive deeper.

Does your dog lick or chew their feet? A little bit of foot licking can be normal, but if the hair has brown saliva staining or the skin is red, then it’s a problem.

Short-term foot licking might be caused by:

• a grass seed
• pad or nail injuries
• stings or abrasions.

These are usually easy for a vet to fix.

Long-term foot licking is frustrating.

• Sometimes it’s truly a long-term disease requiring a long-term solution
• Other times it’s a short term issue that has morphed into a vicious cycle of licking and skin damage

To help our dogs we need to understand their individual motivation. Sometimes it’s not obvious. Beware of anyone claiming to have all the answers.

Myths About Foot Licking

Later I’ll share my views, but here are some of the things you read online that aren’t accurate.

“Dogs lick their feet due to boredom”

A bored dog will probably lick more, but something has to start them licking in the first place. Foot lickers need to be kept occupied, but that’s only a small part of the solution. Overnight they will still lick and scratch if you haven’t got it right.

“Nine times out of ten, the itching is caused by allergies to inhaled pollen.”

9 out of 10 itchy dogs may be allergic, but only if you rule out fleas, mites, bacterial and fungal infections first. None of these are usually visible.

Even when allergic, the allergen may not be inhaled. Allergy studies show that it doesn’t matter how a dog is exposed to its allergen, whether it’s in the coat, on the skin, inhaled or eaten. This is important in knowing what to do, as you will read later. Read more about pollens, dust mites and other allergens of dogs here.

“Dogs that lick their paws aren’t usually suffering from a bacterial or fungal infection.”

Just because you can’t see it doesn’t mean it isn’t there. It takes extra testing to find. I get fooled by this one all the time so it’s no wonder that many non-vets do too.

“Paw licking is only seen in certain breeds.”

The grain of truth here is that canine skin allergies have a genetic element, and some breeds are more at risk than others. However, not all Jack Russell or West Highland White Terriers are allergic and even the healthiest breeds such as Greyhounds get interdigital dermatitis.

“No one has yet developed a cure for allergies.”

We can’t cure most dogs but that doesn’t mean we can’t make a big difference. Allergen Specific Immunotherapy will give some improvement in two thirds of treated dogs, and gives a complete cure in around 10%.

Similarly, new advances like Apoquel and Cytopoint are giving excellent results in many dogs.

“The idea behind giving your dog fish or fish oil is sound, but in practice it never seems to help and can often have unintended results.”

Omega 3 fatty acids help, as good science shows. The effect is weak, but if it doesn’t cause gastrointestinal upsets then why not try them?

“The main problem with medicated shampoos is that they were invented for horses and later marketed for dogs. They are industrial strength detergents and they dry out already damaged skin.”

Rubbish. Good shampoos are listed in our guide to bathing dogs and these won’t damage or dry out skin if used properly. Medicated shampoos such as Malaseb are essential for some infections. Judge them by their results.

“Try to bathe your dog as little as possible. Even the mildest shampoo can wash away natural skin oils. The best shampoo is no shampoo. The best choice is puppy shampoo with aloe vera, oatmeal, and coconut cleansers.”

‘Puppy’ is just a marketing word on shampoo bottles. The same can be true for ‘oatmeal’, ‘aloe vera’ or ‘coconut’. What’s most important is that the shampoo is soap free, balanced and made specifically for dog skin.

Choose your shampoo carefully, preferably with your vet’s assistance.   If you follow our advice on our skin care page and work in cooperation with your vet, you should find frequent bathing to be an important part of managing itchy dogs.

“Creams or ointments don’t work”

It’s not that simple. Every day I see topical remedies play a big part in helping dogs with paw problems. However I also know that they can be dangerous or useless if used incorrectly. Why?

• Putting something on a dog’s feet only makes them lick more.
• Cortisone or antibiotics ointments were never designed to be ingested, and their toxicity is untested.
• Some active ingredients can be too powerful for prolonged use.

BUT with care and the use of a collar to prevent access to the area, ointments and creams can be the fastest and most effective way to help your dog. So here’s my summary of the foot licking problem.

Why Do Allergic Dogs Lick Their Feet?

Dogs with allergic or atopic dermatitis are more likely to be affected in particular places. The best guess is that the combination of a slightly warmer and moist environment makes the skin a bit itchier. Other places include:

• In the ears (see our article on ear infections).
• In the armpits and groin.
• Under the tail.
• On the chin (notice that this is the odd one out).

What Else Causes Dogs To Lick Their Feet?

• Allergic disease is number one, but we do see other causes.
• Grass seeds are very common in spring and early summer- read more here
• Malassezial or staphylococcal infection is common and easily overlooked. While often secondary to allergy, dogs won’t get better if it isn’t controlled.
• Nailbed disease. We see infections, and tumours commonly.
• Illnesses like heart disease or chronic pain can cause dogs to chew at themselves. A common example is when impacted anal glands need emptying. Rusky improved when we controlled his arthritis better.
• Anxiety or Stress can increase foot licking but it isn’t as common as believed.
• Pad damage from hot pavement or overexercise.
• Licking! Did you know that dog saliva and licking are harmful? By the time I see many dogs with interdigital dermatitis the cause isn’t obvious any more. The constant licking only damages the skin more and introduces infection.

What Can Stop Dogs Foot Licking?

It’s helpful to think of foot licking as a skin problem exacerbated by behaviour. Here’s what we suggest:

• Visit our page on dermatitis and skincare and look especially at the links on home remedies and modern veterinary treatments. These wholistic approaches treat the skin as a unit and recognise that the feet are just the visible sign of a larger problem.
• Encourage distractions and extra exercise. I give my atopic dog more raw bones during his itchy season.
• Don’t be tempted to rely on anti lick bitter sprays. These almost never work and aren’t treating the cause. Then read why vets don’t recommend tea tree oil for itchy skin either!
• See your vet. They can help diagnose the cause and then prescribe extra treatments such as:

1. Antibacterial or anti fungal therapy.
2. Topical creams, sprays or ointments.
3. Cortisone injections or tablets (especially if used short term).
4. Newer treatments such as Atopica, Apoquel or Cytopoint.

Read more about how your vet can help itchy dogs and foot licking here.

Have something to add? Comments (if open) will appear within 24 hours.
By Andrew Spanner BVSc(Hons) MVetStud, a vet in Adelaide, Australia. Meet his team here. The information provided here is not intended to be used as a substitute for going to the vet. If your pet is unwell, please seek veterinary attention.

Even after all these years nail clipping remains one of the most difficult jobs I do. You can do it but here are some things we want you to know first.

What happens if nails are too long?

• Excessively long nails probably cause pain by forcing dogs to weightbear on their nail beds.
• Long nails also cause permanent toe deformity by twisting the toes into abnormal positions.
• Cats’ nails can curl around until the sharp tips pierce the pad, causing pain and infection.

Click here to learn how to tell when a dog’s nails are too long.

Do all dogs need their nails clipped?

The dog’s foot in the picture above is typical for a well-exercised mid-sized dog. It’s tempting to trim off the sharp tips, but look at the clear nail closest to us. Can you see how it’s pink all the way to the bottom? That’s the ‘quick’: cut it and you and your dog will be sorry. See why below.

Most dogs’ nails don’t need trimming because they wear down naturally as they walk and run. Be very careful clipping your dog’s nails without first getting a vet to show you how.

So why do some dogs need their nails clipped?

• Age. Older dogs and young puppies don’t get to walk as much as they need.
• Breed. Some breeds and individuals just have nails that don’t wear down well.
• Grass surfaces at home and in the park don’t wear down nails.
• Body size. most Chihuahuas need regular nail trims, St Bernards usually don’t.

What is the dewclaw?

If you look at your dog, you’ll notice they have only four toes on the ground.  On the front feet only* is a fifth toe which corresponds to our thumb. Because this nail sits higher, it doesn’t wear down as well, and often needs trimming to prevent a sharp or hooked tip. You can see the dog’s dewclaw here is sharp compared to his flat weightbearing nails.

*Some dogs do have hind dewclaws which often lack the phalangeal bones and are even more troublesome. Except in specific breeds, we consider these an abnormality and recommend their removal at the time of desexing.

Read more here about how to trim dewclaws, and when they need removal.

How do I clip my dog’s nails?

How Much to Cut? Warning: long nails can contain long quicks, especially in old animals.

There is no way to be certain that you won’t cause pain and bleeding when cutting black nails. This is where experience counts. A ‘rule of thumb’ (pun intended) is that the nail end should be level with the flat of the pad. However, it’s best to go a bit longer and work back.

Clear nails are easier. At least you can see the quick and stay away from it.

Equipment: I only use scissor-type nail clippers, even on small dogs. It’s worth paying extra for good quality stainless steel blades. The guillotine-type clippers may look easier, but they have a nasty habit of trapping and twisting the nail.

Technique: be confident, precise and fast. Once you choose the level, cut swiftly. This avoids the dog either trying to pull a trapped nail or moving the nail so you cut too deeply.

How Often? Every three months.

What happens if I cut the nails too short?

The quick has a generous supply of blood vessels and nerves. If you cut it, the result is pain, a bloodbath, and a scared dog who is very unlikely to let you near their nails again.

To stop the bleeding, we use a special styptic. At home, you can apply a ball of cotton wool to the nail and loosely tape it to the foot. The fibres in the cotton wool provide a framework for a clot to form. After an hour you should be able to remove it. See your vet if bleeding persists.

Once a dog has experienced a bad nail clip, they tend to be very anxious and try to jerk their feet away as you cut. This makes it all the more likely they’ll get another bad cut. We see lots of these dogs.

Do cat nails need clipping?

I always think of the Jaguar at Adelaide Zoo. We’d just darted him with an anaesthetic and after a checkup I set about trimming his giant claws, thinking I was doing a useful task. Dr Schulz said “steady on, he needs those”. He lived with a ferocious female and I have no doubt Schulz was right.

It’s the same for cats. I won’t trim cats’ claws if they have outside access for two reasons: defence and agility. I don’t want them falling from a roof or tree because I took away their means of attachment.

I’m happy to trim indoor cats’ nails. They won’t miss them around the house, and it spares the furniture, carpet, your best clothes and your skin. Older people, in particular, can get nasty skin wounds.

The picture at the start shows the correct place to cut.

How do cats sharpen their nails?

Cats’ nails are very cool; they have layers like an onion, so that by clawing on a rough surface, the cat can unsheathe the older blunt later and expose a new sharp layer within. That’s why you find those thin nail sheaths around the scratching pole. They really are sharpening their nails!

Once cats can’t or won’t use scratching posts, the nail sheaths start building up. Some cats, usually the elderly, need their nails trimmed to prevent them becoming ingrown. Ingrown nails should be checked by a vet. Not only are they usually infected, but the cats may be suffering from arthritis or other conditions preventing good mobility.

How do I clip my cat’s (or ferret’s) nails?

How Much to Cut: Just take off the thin part. Stay well away from the pink quick.

Equipment: The cat nail clippers (pictured) are the easiest to use and perfect for cats, despite the dog picture!

Technique: you have to learn to push out your cat’s claws as shown. Most cats will only let you do a few at a time so I keep my clippers near where I sit with my cat.

How Often? To prevent overgrown or ingrown nails, do it every three months. To prevent scratching of people or furniture, do it monthly.

Is there an alternative to nail clipping?

Some people have used Dremel-type tools. I can imagine a whole lot of things going wrong so I’m not so sure. If you’re patient you can always use an emery board.

The best solution is to get a vet to assess and clip the nails to normal length. Then (if the vet agrees) you should be able to keep them short by daily walks on paved surfaces (dogs) or provide appropriate scratching areas (cats).

We vets clip nails all day so we’re always happy to do it. It’s included free of charge in a full consultation, otherwise the charge is approximately half a normal consult fee if done separately.

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By Andrew Spanner BVSc(Hons) MVetStud, a vet in Adelaide, Australia. Meet his team here.